Watchcap Beanie
This is a great basic hat I designed for my boyfriend. He likes lighter weight hats with a folded brim to keep his ears warm.
Yarn: Light Fingering Weight, the yarn shown here is Lion Brand Sock Ease in the color Rock Candy. Read Heart Heart and Sole and many other sock yarn would also work.
I was able to make two hats with one 100g skein of Sock Ease.
Needles: 3.25 mm dpns
Sizes: Medium 18" (will stretch to comfortably fit most women) Large 19" (will comfortably stitch to fit most men)
Cast on: Using the cast on method of your choice, I used the long tail, cast on 120 (128) sts
This hat is worked in the round. At the end of the cast on, join by knitting into the first stitch, being careful not to twist.
rnd 1: *K2, P2, repeat from * to end of rnd.
Continue working in K2P2 rib for 2 inches.
From here knit every row until the hat measures 8.5 inches total (6.5 inches from the ribbed brim).
Shape crown
Decrease Rnd: *K6, K2tog, repeat from * to the end of rnd. 105 (112) sts
Knit 1 rnd
Decrease Rnd: *K5, K2tog, repeat from * to the end of rnd. 90 (96) sts
Knit 1 rnd
Decrease Rnd: *K4, K2tog, repeat from * to the end of rnd. 75 (80) sts
Knit 1 rnd
Decrease Rnd: *K3, K2tog, repeat from * to the end of rnd. 60 (64) sts
Knit 1 rnd
Decrease Rnd: *K2, K2tog, repeat from * to the end of rnd. 45 (48) sts
Knit 1 rnd
Decrease Rnd: *K1, K2tog, repeat from * to the end of rnd. 30 (32) sts
Knit 1 rnd
Decrease Rnd: *K2tog, repeat from * to the end of rnd. 15 (16) sts
Decrease Rnd: *K2tog, repeat from * to the end of rnd (for medium size there will be one leftover st, knit last st). 8 (8) sts
Cut yarn, leaving a 4" tail, and thread it through all 8 sts, pull in tight and weave in ends on the wrong side.
Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Easy No Sew Dog Toy
Here is a quick project, for an easy, no sew dog toy.
You will need about 1/4 yard of fleece.
Simply cut 3 rectangles, approx 8 x 24," then knot them together. Takes less than 5 minutes.

So far the dogs love them, and they've lasted 3 days, which is longer than I expected. And they were basically free because I used leftover fleece from another project.
You will need about 1/4 yard of fleece.
Simply cut 3 rectangles, approx 8 x 24," then knot them together. Takes less than 5 minutes.

So far the dogs love them, and they've lasted 3 days, which is longer than I expected. And they were basically free because I used leftover fleece from another project.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Summer Ankle Socks
I'm back! After 2 months of ignoring my blog. I really have no good excuse, I've just been very busy lately. One of the perks/downfalls of living at the beach is a constant stream of visitors all summer. I at least have a new knitting pattern to make up for my long absence. I made these for my Dad, who loves handknit socks. I've made him several pairs, but they were all wool blend yarns and I wanted to make something cooler for summer. This was the first time I used stretchy yarn, and I really liked it.
Summer Ankle Socks Knitting Pattern


Instructions are for Women's Small, (Men's Large) Because the yarn is stretchy, the circumference will fit most people, so to adjust for a different size foot, lengthen or shorten the foot.
For all sizes you will need 1 skein of Paton's stretch socks, and 4 3.25mm dpns
Gauge: 18 rows= 2" Be sure to check your gauge, especially if you have never worked with stretchy yarn before.
LEG:
CO 52 (60), divided evenly over 3 needles
work in k2p2 rib for 2", approx 18 rnds
HEEL, women's small
place first k stitch on needle 3, and work heel flap over next 28 sts
row 1: *sl1, k1 14 times
row 2: *sl1, p1 14 times
repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 36 heel rows, or until heel flap is a square
TURN HEEL
k17, ssk k1, turn
sl1 p9 p2tog, p1, turn
sl1, k10, ssk, k1, turn
repeat last 2 rows, working 1 additional stitch each row until all heel stitches have been worked, ending on a WS row
HEEL, men's large
work heel flap over next 30 sts
row 1: *sl1, k1 15 times
row 2: *sl1, p1 15 times
repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 36 heel rows, or until heel flap is a square
TURN HEEL
k18, ssk k1, turn
sl1 p7 p2tog, p1, turn
sl1, k8, ssk, k1, turn
repeat last 2 rows, working 1 additional stitch each row until all heel stitches have been worked, ending on a WS row
GUSSET
Needle 1: knit across pickup and knit 17 (18) stitches along side of heel flap, Needle 2: work instep stitches in k2p2 rib, Needle 3: pickup and knit 17 (18) stitches along side of heel flap, plus 8 (9) sts from needle 1
row 2: Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1, Needle 2: work in k2p2 rib, Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end
Row 3: work even
repeat rows 2 and 3 until only 52 (60) sts remain
FOOT
work even until foot measures 6.5 (8)" from the edge of the heel flap, this will be approximately 54 (63) rows from the stitched picked up working Round 1 of the gusset
TOE
Rnd 1: Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1, Needle 2: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1, Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end
Rnd 2: work even
repeat rnds 1 and 2 until 28 (36) sts remain
repeat rnd 1 until 8 sts remain
cut tail, and thread through remaining 8 sts, pull tight and weave in loose ends on WS
This is the first sock pattern I've written and shared, so if you find any errors or have any questing please contact me. Also, I'd love to see photos of your completed socks.
Summer Ankle Socks Knitting Pattern


Instructions are for Women's Small, (Men's Large) Because the yarn is stretchy, the circumference will fit most people, so to adjust for a different size foot, lengthen or shorten the foot.
For all sizes you will need 1 skein of Paton's stretch socks, and 4 3.25mm dpns
Gauge: 18 rows= 2" Be sure to check your gauge, especially if you have never worked with stretchy yarn before.
LEG:
CO 52 (60), divided evenly over 3 needles
work in k2p2 rib for 2", approx 18 rnds
HEEL, women's small
place first k stitch on needle 3, and work heel flap over next 28 sts
row 1: *sl1, k1 14 times
row 2: *sl1, p1 14 times
repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 36 heel rows, or until heel flap is a square
TURN HEEL
k17, ssk k1, turn
sl1 p9 p2tog, p1, turn
sl1, k10, ssk, k1, turn
repeat last 2 rows, working 1 additional stitch each row until all heel stitches have been worked, ending on a WS row
HEEL, men's large
work heel flap over next 30 sts
row 1: *sl1, k1 15 times
row 2: *sl1, p1 15 times
repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 36 heel rows, or until heel flap is a square
TURN HEEL
k18, ssk k1, turn
sl1 p7 p2tog, p1, turn
sl1, k8, ssk, k1, turn
repeat last 2 rows, working 1 additional stitch each row until all heel stitches have been worked, ending on a WS row
GUSSET
Needle 1: knit across pickup and knit 17 (18) stitches along side of heel flap, Needle 2: work instep stitches in k2p2 rib, Needle 3: pickup and knit 17 (18) stitches along side of heel flap, plus 8 (9) sts from needle 1
row 2: Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1, Needle 2: work in k2p2 rib, Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end
Row 3: work even
repeat rows 2 and 3 until only 52 (60) sts remain
FOOT
work even until foot measures 6.5 (8)" from the edge of the heel flap, this will be approximately 54 (63) rows from the stitched picked up working Round 1 of the gusset
TOE
Rnd 1: Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1, Needle 2: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1, Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end
Rnd 2: work even
repeat rnds 1 and 2 until 28 (36) sts remain
repeat rnd 1 until 8 sts remain
cut tail, and thread through remaining 8 sts, pull tight and weave in loose ends on WS
This is the first sock pattern I've written and shared, so if you find any errors or have any questing please contact me. Also, I'd love to see photos of your completed socks.
Monday, March 29, 2010
Peeps!!
Easter Peeps! I crocheted these this weekend, just in time to have colorful decorations around the house for Easter. Of course Chewie and Panzer wanted them, but these stuffies are not for the dogs to destroy. I made the basket too.

Peeps instructions:
You will need some brightly colored sport, dk or worsted weight yarn. Not much, I just used some leftovers I had lying around. Gauge is unimportant, but I recommend using a hook one size smaller than indicated on the yarn label.
This pattern is pretty easy, but the ears can be difficult because of the small size.
Body and Head (begins at bottom and works up to ears)
ch 20, sl to form ring, being careful not to twist stitches
sc in each ch around- 20 sc
sc in first 4 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 24 sts
sc in first 5 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 28 sts
sc in first 6 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 32 sts
sc in first 7 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 36 sts
work 6 rnds even
sc in first 7 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 32 sts
sc in first 6 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 28 sts
sc in first 5 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 24 sts
work 1 rnd even
sc in first 5 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 28 sts
sc in first 6 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 32 sts
work 4 rnds even
sc in first 6 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 28 sts
sc in first 5 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 24 sts
sc in first 4 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 20 sts
sc in first 3 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 16 sts
sc in first 8 sts, leaving remaining 8 sts unworked
Ears (for each ear you will be working with half of the remaining 16 sts at the top of the head)
ch 4, and sl in first st of previous round, sc in 8 sts around- 12 sts
1 sc in each ch, and each sc
sc in first 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, repeat 1 time- 14 sts
work even for 4 rounds
sc in first 5 st, sc 2 tog, repeat 1 time- 12 sts
sc 2 tog 6 times- 6 sts
sc 2 tog 3 times- 3 sts
cut a 4" tail and pull through last st, weave in closing up any hole at the top of the ear.
for the second ear, do not chain 4, instead work one sc in bottom loop of chain made for first ear, than work the same as the first ear.
Before closing up the bottom of your Peep, stuff it with fiber-fil or batting
Bottom
work 20 sc around base of Peep
sc 2 tog, 10 times- 10 sts
sc 2 tog 5 times- 5 sts
cut a 4" tail and pull through last st, weave in closing up any hole
20 sc

Peeps instructions:
You will need some brightly colored sport, dk or worsted weight yarn. Not much, I just used some leftovers I had lying around. Gauge is unimportant, but I recommend using a hook one size smaller than indicated on the yarn label.
This pattern is pretty easy, but the ears can be difficult because of the small size.
Body and Head (begins at bottom and works up to ears)
ch 20, sl to form ring, being careful not to twist stitches
sc in each ch around- 20 sc
sc in first 4 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 24 sts
sc in first 5 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 28 sts
sc in first 6 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 32 sts
sc in first 7 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 36 sts
work 6 rnds even
sc in first 7 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 32 sts
sc in first 6 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 28 sts
sc in first 5 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 24 sts
work 1 rnd even
sc in first 5 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 28 sts
sc in first 6 sts, 2 sc in 5th st, repeat 3 times- 32 sts
work 4 rnds even
sc in first 6 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 28 sts
sc in first 5 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 24 sts
sc in first 4 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 20 sts
sc in first 3 sts, sc 2 tog, repeat 3 times- 16 sts
sc in first 8 sts, leaving remaining 8 sts unworked
Ears (for each ear you will be working with half of the remaining 16 sts at the top of the head)
ch 4, and sl in first st of previous round, sc in 8 sts around- 12 sts
1 sc in each ch, and each sc
sc in first 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, repeat 1 time- 14 sts
work even for 4 rounds
sc in first 5 st, sc 2 tog, repeat 1 time- 12 sts
sc 2 tog 6 times- 6 sts
sc 2 tog 3 times- 3 sts
cut a 4" tail and pull through last st, weave in closing up any hole at the top of the ear.
for the second ear, do not chain 4, instead work one sc in bottom loop of chain made for first ear, than work the same as the first ear.
Before closing up the bottom of your Peep, stuff it with fiber-fil or batting
Bottom
work 20 sc around base of Peep
sc 2 tog, 10 times- 10 sts
sc 2 tog 5 times- 5 sts
cut a 4" tail and pull through last st, weave in closing up any hole
20 sc

Wednesday, January 20, 2010
Free Pattern: Stripey Wristwarmers
These are super easy, and only require one skein of yarn and would make a great quick gift.
I originally got this idea from one of my favorite blogs, Attic 24. I love Lucy's pattern for a crocheted pair. Instead of using multiple yarns (and weaving in multiple ends) I used a pretty multicolored sock yarn. Also, this was my project for an trip via airline so portability was definitely a factor (I made these way back in October on my trip to Las Vegas, but only finished them this week).


1 skein Patons Kroy Socks in Tangerine Jacquard) and size 3.25 DPNS
Finished size: 9 inches long, and approx. 8 inches in circumference (but stretchy)
Cast on 56 stitches.
Join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist.
Work in K2 P2 rib for 5.5 inches (approx 48 rnds)
Switch to working back and forth, staying in pattern, to create thumbhole, for 2 inches (16 rows).
Switch back to working in the round for an additional 1.5 inches (12 rnds).
Bind off and weave in ends.
I originally got this idea from one of my favorite blogs, Attic 24. I love Lucy's pattern for a crocheted pair. Instead of using multiple yarns (and weaving in multiple ends) I used a pretty multicolored sock yarn. Also, this was my project for an trip via airline so portability was definitely a factor (I made these way back in October on my trip to Las Vegas, but only finished them this week).


1 skein Patons Kroy Socks in Tangerine Jacquard) and size 3.25 DPNS
Finished size: 9 inches long, and approx. 8 inches in circumference (but stretchy)
Cast on 56 stitches.
Join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist.
Work in K2 P2 rib for 5.5 inches (approx 48 rnds)
Switch to working back and forth, staying in pattern, to create thumbhole, for 2 inches (16 rows).
Switch back to working in the round for an additional 1.5 inches (12 rnds).
Bind off and weave in ends.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Pocket Mirror How To
Yesterday I said I would have an easy project, and I do; making pocket mirrors with your own designs or photos on the back. I saw this awhile ago on a TV show (I can't remember which) and have wanted to try it. Although I was afraid of working with foil tape. It seemed scary and difficult, and possibly painful. Don't worry its none of those things.

All the materials you will need to make these can be purchased at Michael's, or any large craft store.
small mirrors
paper glaze
foil tape
craft glue
scissors
images

Chose a photo or image, a thin collage would also work. Because I plan to have these in my Scarlett Design shop I made an illustratior document with the images already at the correct size. I found it works best to have your image just slightly smaller than the mirror.
Adhere your image to the back of the mirror using craft glue. I used Scotch Scrapbooker's Glue.

Wrap the mirror with foil tape. Be careful to keep the edge of the mirror in the center of the tape, so that there will be a small overlap on the front and back side.

Smooth down the foil tape first with your fingers by pinching around the edges and taking extra care to get a smooth corner. Then using a smooth flat stick, such as a popsicle stick, or I used the handle of a paint brush, smooth down the foil tape again.

Finally, apply paper glaze, I used Alene's Paper Glaze, to the image side of the mirror, being careful to cover right up to the edge of the foil tape. You can apply a very thick coat right from the bottle, or apply a thinner coat and brush it to cover the entire image. Let dry for several hours. You may want to apply another coat.

All the materials you will need to make these can be purchased at Michael's, or any large craft store.
small mirrors
paper glaze
foil tape
craft glue
scissors
images

Chose a photo or image, a thin collage would also work. Because I plan to have these in my Scarlett Design shop I made an illustratior document with the images already at the correct size. I found it works best to have your image just slightly smaller than the mirror.
Adhere your image to the back of the mirror using craft glue. I used Scotch Scrapbooker's Glue.

Wrap the mirror with foil tape. Be careful to keep the edge of the mirror in the center of the tape, so that there will be a small overlap on the front and back side.

Smooth down the foil tape first with your fingers by pinching around the edges and taking extra care to get a smooth corner. Then using a smooth flat stick, such as a popsicle stick, or I used the handle of a paint brush, smooth down the foil tape again.

Finally, apply paper glaze, I used Alene's Paper Glaze, to the image side of the mirror, being careful to cover right up to the edge of the foil tape. You can apply a very thick coat right from the bottle, or apply a thinner coat and brush it to cover the entire image. Let dry for several hours. You may want to apply another coat.

Friday, December 5, 2008
Free Crocheted Snowflake Patterns
I love, love, love snowflakes. And pretty much anything with snowflakes on it, including pottery, sweaters, and of course the snowflake books. So it may come as a surprise to you that when I first started crocheting I didn't react very enthusiastically to my family's request for crocheted snowflakes. Although my grandmother used to make everyone beautiful ones with no. 10 thread and an itty-bitty hook, she isn't able to anymore because she has arthritis. I had no desire to make them myself, they were "granny," miniature doilies really, and I must admit, no. 10 crochet thread scared me. But the requests kept coming every Christmas. So I began making snowflakes with leftover bits of sport and sock weight yarns. Now I love making snowflakes, and this year I'm planning on including them in many of my Christmas cards for my friends and family.
Snowflake Pattern 1 (the larger one in the photo above)
Choose a yarn and hook. I recommend a thin yarn (anything lighter than worsted weight). Look on the label and use the recommended hook size.
ch 6 and join with a sl st to form a ring
rnd 1- ch 1, 12 sc in ring, join with a sl st in top of first sc, 12 sts
rnd 2- ch 3, *(2dc, ch1, 2 dc) in next sc, ch 2, sc in next sc, ch 2* repeat from * to *4 times, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in last sc, ch2, join with sl in first ch
rnd 3- ch 4, *(2dc, ch2, 2 dc) in ch1 space, ch 3, sc top of sc, ch 3* repeat from * to *4 times, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch1 space, ch3, join with sl in first ch
rnd 3- ch 6, *(2dc, ch2, 2 dc) in ch1 space, ch 5, sc top of sc, ch 5* repeat from * to *4 times, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch1 space, ch5, join with sl in first ch
cut tail and weave in ends.
At this point your snowflake will look like a floppy, misshapen flower, but don't get discouraged. Throughly wet your snowflake with spray starch, then pin it to a piece of styrofoam and leave it to dry. When it has dried, carefully remove the pins and if you with attach a loop of mono-filament for a hanger.
Snowflake 2 (the smaller one in the top photo)
This one is super quick and easy.
ch4 and join with a st st to form a ring
rnd 1- ch 3 (counts as first dc), 11 dc in ring, join in top of ch, 12 sts
rnd 2- *ch3, 3dc cluster in next st, ch 5, sl in top of cluster, ch 3, sl in next st* repeat from * to * 5 times, join with a st in last dc, cut tail and weave in ends
These make a great small gift, or can be used in place of a bow on a present. Or you could make a bunch for yourself, assuming you aren't too busy making things for everyone else like I always am this time of year. Enjoy!
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Octopus Amiguriumi
I'm very sorry for disappearing for so long. This summer was very unproductive for me. Not only did I not advance my business, but I dreadfully neglected my blog, my flickr, my etsy, and swaps. Fortunately, summer is over and the tourists have left, which means less time at my paying job, and more time to devote to Scarlett Design.
I hope this octopus amiguriumi pattern helps to make up for my long absence.
Octopus Amiguriumi
Head
Ch 4, and sl in first ch to from a ring (this will be the top of the head)
Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout patern) 11 dc in ring, 12 sts
Rnd 2: ch 3, dc in first st, 2 dc in each st to end of rnd, 24 sts
Rnd 3: ch 3, *2 dc in second st st, dc in next st, repeat to last st ,2 dc in lat st, 36 sts
Rnd 4: ch 3, dc in each st to end of rnd
Rnd 5: ch 3, dc in second st, 2 dc in third st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, repeat to end of
Head
Ch 4, and sl in first ch to from a ring (this will be the top of the head)
Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout patern) 11 dc in ring, 12 sts
Rnd 2: ch 3, dc in first st, 2 dc in each st to end of rnd, 24 sts
Rnd 3: ch 3, *2 dc in second st st, dc in next st, repeat to last st ,2 dc in lat st, 36 sts
Rnd 4: ch 3, dc in each st to end of rnd
Rnd 5: ch 3, dc in second st, 2 dc in third st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, repeat to end of
rnd, 48 sts
Rnd 6-9: ch 3, dc in each st to end of rnd
Rnd 10: ch 3, dc in second st, dc2tog, *dc in next to sts, dc2tog, repeat to end of rnd, 36 sts
Rnd 11: ch 3, dc2tog, *dc in next st, de2tog, repeat to end of rnd, 24 sts
Rnd 12: dc 2tog to end of rnd, 12 sts
Add stuffing to head here
Rnd 13: dc3tog to end of rnd, 4 sts
Cut tail and use it to sew up any small hole t the bottom
Arms (make 8)
Ch 31
Sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 9 sts, hdc in next 10 sts, dc in last 10 sts
Row 2: ch 3, dc in next st, then 2 dc in each of then next 14 sts, 2 hdc in each st to end of row
Rnd 6-9: ch 3, dc in each st to end of rnd
Rnd 10: ch 3, dc in second st, dc2tog, *dc in next to sts, dc2tog, repeat to end of rnd, 36 sts
Rnd 11: ch 3, dc2tog, *dc in next st, de2tog, repeat to end of rnd, 24 sts
Rnd 12: dc 2tog to end of rnd, 12 sts
Add stuffing to head here
Rnd 13: dc3tog to end of rnd, 4 sts
Cut tail and use it to sew up any small hole t the bottom
Arms (make 8)
Ch 31
Sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 9 sts, hdc in next 10 sts, dc in last 10 sts
Row 2: ch 3, dc in next st, then 2 dc in each of then next 14 sts, 2 hdc in each st to end of row
Cut tail and weave in. Use tail at the wider end of the arm to sew it to the head, weave in ends.
Using some contrasting yarn, embroider a mouth and eyes.
Using some contrasting yarn, embroider a mouth and eyes.
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